When I accepted owner Jose Dionico’s invitation to check out JoJo’s in Benson, his new high-end, late night diner, I was already looking forward to writing this email. Because I had a feeling it was going to be just what Omaha can use right now: a well executed, breakfasty option as good in the morning as it’d be at 2 a.m. And thankfully, for all of us, I was right. 

I’ve had an interesting relationship with Jose over the years. I originally gave his restaurant Taita a fairly critical review; after he kept making that restaurant better and better, I reviewed it a second time. I remember I opened that story by saying I was eating my own words. And I was. I also reviewed the original location of Ika (Liked it, didn’t love it) and the second, current location, which I always liked. It wasn’t until he opened Ika San in the Old Market that I fell absolutely in love with his food, his vibe and his style. So when I heard about JoJos, which is now open, I had high hopes. I’ve had lots of high end diner experiences in other cities; Omaha never really offered one on the same level with the same old-school diner vibe.

Now it does. 

We tried two items on the abbreviated late night menu the kitchen served during the soft opening: a fantastic double-pattied smash burger topped with American, shredded lettuce and a fried egg along with a side of crispy, crunchy French fries; and a deeply flavored root vegetable hash with succulent barbacoa, salsa verde, pickled poblanos and a sunny egg. It’s breakfast from a specific point of view — Jose’s — but with flavor and depth that will appeal, I think, to almost anyone. 

There’s a lot more to come on the menu, including more sandwiches, actual breakfast items (I can’t wait to try their take on the classic two-egg breakfast, which I wish more diners in Omaha did a really good version of.) Plus there’s a forthcoming list of cocktails and boozy milkshakes and floats. 

I didn’t go into this planning to write a review; I realize I kind of have. But old habits die hard, and I’m happy to form new ones if they’re as good as this new top-notch diner.