Sometimes you’re simply hungry for the familiar.

When I saw M’s Pub had reopened its doors for takeout — they have since reopened the dining room at half-capacity — I immediately made a mental list of what I wanted to order.

It’s a shortlist of my favorites: crab cakes (which I once called the best in Omaha and still hold up to that claim), a classic lahvosh and Matthew’s pick, the Iowa grill sandwich.

I have always particularly enjoyed the little salad of pickled vegetables that comes with the crab cakes, on the appetizer menu. The bright peppers and carrots perfectly set off the richness of the seafood.

The Iowa grill, I’d guess, must be one of the most popular sandwiches on the menu at M’s, and though it’s a rather basic combination — a simple grilled pork sandwich — it never seems to disappoint.

We ordered both a draft beer to go as well as one of the restaurant’s classic cocktails, the Number Nine. The strawberry-infused vodka drink tasted great, just like the ones I remember ordering so many times at the M’s Pub bar.

If this is your kind of comfort food in the same way it’s mine, you should check it out. In a world that hardly feels normal any more, it feels good to revisit a classic.

The how-to

Get all the details on M’s takeout at their Facebook page. They’re offering all the usual favorites, plus cocktails, beer and wine to go. For more information, or to order, call 402-342-2550.