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Review: Revisiting Benson’s simple, straightforward Taco Co. just feels right right now
If there’s one thing I have always felt was true about Taco Co., in the heart of Benson, it’s that Taco Co. can’t be taken too seriously. For whatever reason — perhaps its because we’re coming out of a year of cooking our own food at home — I haven’t yet feel like serious food.…
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My top five pizza spots in Omaha (that got eliminated from the pizza bracket way too soon.)
Many, many people have strong, bold opinions about the first ever Omaha Pizza Bracket, which racked up more than 110,000 votes over the course of March Madness and closed earlier this week with its first ever winner, Mangia Italiana. In the hopes to continue the conversation — to debrief after the bracket, as one friend…
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Review: Mangia Italiana perfects “flyover pizza”
There’s a certain kind of pizza this town loves. I’ve described it before, but here it is again: medium-thick, pillowy crust with a crisp-chewy edge. A heavy hand of red sauce. Plenty of meat, usually including beef (this is the Beef State, after all.) A thick spread of melted cheese. Vegetables? Nah. I’ve called it…
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Review: Timber Wood Fired pizza nails chewy, crispy, fermented crust
There is a certain kind of pizza crust that I just love. It’s chewy but crispy, stretchy in the best way, sometimes with a distinctly fermented flavor. The edges are flecked with burnt spots and air bubbles, and the thin center is often topped lightly, because it’s delicate. Airy. Timber Wood Fire Grill’s pizza crust…
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Review: At Salmex, Salvadoran and Mexican food is made with care
It’s been a while since I have been as excited about a little hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant as I have been about Salmex, a new-to-me Salvadoran spot on the edge of downtown. Here’s why: Every item we tried on the restaurant’s rather massive menu tasted like it was made with care, from scratch. There’s dishes you…
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Hot patio review: Plank Seafood + Provisions
Let me be the first to say it: Most Omaha restaurants have closed their hot patios for the season. It’s been an especially challenging few weeks for us being cooped up in our home (“Join the club,” you might be saying right about now.) That’s why it was such a pleasant surprise, such a heart…
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Best of 2020: Crap year, great food
I had no plans to recap the best food I ate in 2020. Then I saw a Facebook post written by chef David Utterback, where he featured my best of 2018 list which I wrote when I was still at the World-Herald. I sent Dave a text, and we chatted. He made a good point:…
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Hot patio review: At Dante, the petite patio and excellent Italian are worth visiting
Three words I saw on Instagram led Matthew and I to Dante’s patio in west Omaha: black truffle pizza. Yes, it was excellent, but that’s no surprise. The experience at Dante never seems to let me down, but it had been a while since we’d dined there because Matthew and I have stuck to our…
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Hot Patio Review: The Boiler Room’s patio is simply sublime
There’s been no shortage of moments in 2020 where I have looked around my life and wondered where “normal” went. Last Friday was a moment as close to “normal” as we’ve seen in many months. Last Friday we found ourselves among the lucky handful of diners who scored a seat on the patio — newly…